You stand and crouch, finding impossible balance amidst total chaos
You ride it, and sink into the sweet spot, then you fly.
The world goes silent, so does your heart and all your internal functions.
Time stands still.
You are inside the water, the wave, the entire ocean has accepted you.
It holds you safely inside its boundaries.
You donâ€™t breathe
Donâ€™t ruin the moment with movement or sound.
The water is around you, over you, under you, in front of you,
crashing behind you, speeding under you, chasing, hunting you down.
Still you do not breathe.
You reach out and touch the wall, it bites your skin.
How can you go so fast and survive?
Your escape route is growing smaller,
moving away and rushing towards you in the same moment.
Still you refuse to fill your lungs.
The thought of those rocks haunts you.
Itâ€™s peaceful anarchy.
Tranquil and frenzied.
Serene and furious.
You feel your mortality, and your immortality.
You see your potential.
You are powerful, youâ€™re a demi-god,
you have conquered the mighty ocean.
Itâ€™s submitted to your will.
You see victory at hand.
Then the beast spits you out, discarding,
shooting you up into weightless space.
Sounds crash into your brain,
painfully bombarding you with admonitions.
How dare you attempt to tame the monster?
Gravity grabs and slams you back to the liquid surface.
The impact feels like cement.
You are plunged against it and then down,
down, deeper where the sounds muffle and echo.
You are pummeled against rocks, tumbled, tossed.
Now you cannot breathe.
If you do, you know you will die.